Hello Everyone!
I've been encouraged by Fulbright officials, family and friends to initiate a blog depicting my upcoming adventure. I can't say that it's the result of a longstanding personal dream or professional goal, only that once I locked in on it, I resolved to do my best and most to make it happen. As my husband JD can attest, I devoted several hours daily for six months, making contacts at numerous universities, learning all I could and constructing a project statement that conveyed my personality and qualifications. To say that it will be an incredible experience is a gross understatement.
I am deeply grateful to my beloved husband of 21 years, who understands and fully supports my desire to make this kind of a difference in our world, as well as to meet new people from around the globe. When in late 2008 I first voiced an interest in the Fulbright Program, Johnnie urged me to pursue it yet stated that it wasn't something he could also do. Our reunion on Dec. 23 in Vienna, where we will spend Christmas, will be precious indeed.
August 23 – Arrival
Arrived in Frankfurt at 0700, well rested and fed. I had 4 hours before departing for Riga via Lufthansa. Clearing customs and immigration was hardly noticeable, much different from the pre-EU days. Now the Schengen Agreement (http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_4361.html), which reduces or eliminates border controls, is in place. The dogs were sniffing, but the days of luggage searches being S.O.P. are history, at least in my experience.
I landed in Riga, having caught just glimpses of the city from the air, as I had an aisle seat. After retrieving my luggage I obtained some local currency (1.00 LVL = 1.82 USD) and proceeded to the place where the US Embassy staff member had agreed to meet me. After 20 minutes I grew “a bit” concerned, but as it turned out, they were expecting my arrival 30 minutes later. The one who was to meet me, Andris, was unable to come as he had an unexpected meeting with – the President of Latvia. What could I say?!
I did meet two other staff members, Marta and one I will name as “Norm” but that’s not it in full. They pointed out several areas of interest in the city as they drove to the bus station. Marta graciously helped me buy a ticket for Liepaja, around $10. As she predicted, the bus driver loaded my very heavy luggage into the hold of the bus.
The bus, with assigned seating, was quite comfortable, except for crowded legroom. Uh-oh! No facilities. It turned out to be a 3 ¾ hour trip, about halfway across the country, to Liepaja. A very well-timed 10-minute stop in Sigulda diverted us in a southerly direction.
The length of the trip (compared to 2-2½ hours by car) involved numerous roadside stops for additional passengers. Although it looks like a freeway on a map of the country, the west-east highway is a 2-lane road and the bus traveled at a very moderate speed. I enjoyed looking at the many rye fields in various stages of harvest, as well as quite a few cattle and forested areas. All the houses had flower gardens.
I wanted desperately to stay awake for the entire ride, and see Liepaja from the first moment, but that was not to be! Before I knew it, the woman beside me nudged me and announced our arrival at the Liepaja bus station.
I lumbered down the steps with my 2 too-heavy carry-ons, and spotted Agita right away. She is the Foreign Affairs Dept. Head with whom I’ve corresponded since Spring 2009. She is the typical northern Europe blond, very attractive and perky. She was accompanied by her daughter, age 6, whom she introduced as Elisabeth.
Elisabeth promptly presented me with a gift: 2 lovely pictures, one of which displayed two bunches of colorful flowers, and the other, which read in laboriously printed text: HeLLO KAY
I hope to see Elizabeth again, for I would like to have a picture of her (but not for publication here, you understand). She is tall, blond, and pretty – and very bright and chatty.
We briefly drove the city, then came to the attractive building where we had reserved an apartment. Agita had picked up the key earlier. Now, the advantage of a 4th floor location is the rooftop view; the disadvantage of this 4th floor location is (gasp!) there is no elevator. I can tell you, after 2nd floor, a 45# suitcase feels like a lot more! But we managed it together, and I am managing ok now.
It was close to 9:00 p.m. Given a 7-hour time difference, I had left home 27 hours earlier. I unpacked ‘most everything and freshened up to find a place for dinner (2 blocks).
Well, you may be disappointed, but I must report that my first meal in Latvia was – Japanese! Agita pointed out the restaurant and recommended the sushi. I had a main dish instead, Kang Pao Chicken, and a beer. Both were excellent and a safe bet given my fatigue. Not long later it was lights out.
August 24 - Day 1 in Liepaja
On this day I walked much of my part of the city. The first order of business was to visit the outdoor market and locate an ATM and obtain enough cash to pay the rent (at the time I thought I had to pay that way). It’s only about 10 minutes to the city center. To find the market I headed east according to the map, but the streets zig and zag so much I became disoriented pretty quickly. It helped, though, that I kept encountering people carrying very full shopping bags. Eventually I found my way, picking my steps over the uneven sidewalks and cobblestone-paved streets. I enjoyed the walking: here and there a lovely green area with trees and benches. Young mothers were taking their children out in prams and strollers to enjoy the sunshine and warmth. I saw a variety of buildings; many in my immediate area were quite old, ~100 yrs., and in need of painting and repair. Yet often an adjacent building would be a magnificently restored example of Latvian architecture – wooden, 2-3 story, with numerous windows. There are virtually no front yards as the house stoops come right onto the sidewalk.
Saturday, August 29
I feel very rested after a good night's sleep. In fact I turned out the light around 9:30 - wow! early for me. In addition I inadvertently napped about an hour after breakfast. It must be that Latvian rye bread - it tastes sweet, and must have some molasses, sugar, honey, or something. I'll have it for bkft. if I am to function!
A little while ago I scrambled eggs with milk and added some spices, then ate it with a chunk of caraway cheese and a small tomato in chunks. That was my last tomato, and probably the market is closed tomorrow - but maybe not...anyway I will stop over there again shortly to stock up for a couple of
days. The tomatoes are beautiful red in color, with perfect texture and taste. As soon as I cut into one the aroma bursts into the air! Much like a green pepper does.
In due time I will buy some extras and freeze them to add to soups once the weather turns and they no longer are available.
I have a list for non-food shopping; Agita gave me the name of a store like Kmart where I can get cleaning products, shampoo and conditioner, etc. It's just on the other side of the university main building, which itself is just 12 min. walk.
Today dawned fairly clear and brisk, with moderate wind. The wind hasn't picked up much since 6:30. I will wear two layers and should be ok – probably it's around 60. I'll take the umbrella just in case, but I need to get back here to continue working on the plenary talk. It's coming along. I heard back from the conference staff that it's ok to send the paper Monday (instead of yesterday).
Must be noon; the church bells are pealing. There are 7 steeples or church towers of some sort from where I can see.
I had email from the bank (Swedbank) that I will get an account. I am to meet the woman who "interviewed" me yesterday on Monday, but at a different bank location (for which she gave no address!). Ah well, the first location staff can direct me.
Oh - I stopped by the cinema yesterday; Salt, with Angelina Jolie, either is playing now or coming soon. There is another film showing now, but I can't recall the name - which I may see sometime. The films are in English. (Whew!)
So - just to let you know that you you get up and try to reach me I may not be back yet. I expect to be back within 3 hours (have to factor in the walking!).
The flat is wonderful, but not for a tall person! These beam and sloped roof/ceiling really cut into the walking space. Also the picture of the bedroom (from the manager's website) does not show a beam smack in between the beds. It's "wake up quickly and beware!" But on the other hand I like having that skylight window so I can check the dawn and weather immediately. I put a thermometer outside. The flat is very sunny as the LR faces east, the bedroom, south.
I've not started teaching yet; in fact no one here has! At the Aug. 31 initial meeting of faculty and staff in the auditorium of main building, the substantial decline in enrollments was cited as a reason they need to wait a week and see the numbers. A number of late admissions hadn't been processed. So no one will know 'til next Friday or the following Monday which classes will not be offered.
Despite numerous email exchanges during the summer, it seems still in flux with respect to my assignment. I'm to teach an undergrad course on Intercultural Communications; I'm excited about that. Also there's to be a Masters'/Doctoral level class on Qualitative Research Methods but it won't start 'til November (?). And I agreed (groan!) to teach an undergrad class, same topic but scaled down of course. Everyone has said 3 is too much, and I think my Dean here is relenting. Could well be that the students will determine they need to take required courses and not mine, which will be elective. Who knows!?
Interesting the way it works; we had convocation on Sept. 1 - Knowledge Day, as it's known. All students start back to school on this day. It was quite endearing to see youngsters clutching posies (for their teacher, I suppose) walking to school. The pageantry of convocation was tremendous; I hope to have pictures soon.
This coming week, Liepaja Univ. is hosting an international conference, organized by the Int'l. Academy of the Humanization of Education. Theme is Education and Civil Society. In July the Dean asked me to deliver a plenary talk, which of course I agreed to do. It's tomorrow afternoon; my paper has been translated into Latvian, Russian and German. I think I'm one of just 2 English-speaking conference attendees. Should be quite interesting. Actually I was honored to be invited.
Click here for my CV