The snows of December portrayed Liepaja like a fairy tale. Buildings that I passed daily for 4 months took on a fresh new beauty, bathed in light. It was a magical time that I will never forget.

Students in my classes asked why I chose Latvia. I responded that there were two key reasons. First, my father's doctor, whom he liked and admired deeply, had fled his beloved homeland during medical school. He completed his degree in Germany. At the close of WWII he and his wife chose not to return to Latvia where they could not be free. After making a new life for himself in America, he returned to visit Latvia after it regained independence in the early 1990s. So I came to Latvia in memory of Dr. Azeris.

The other reason is more personal and relates to my career. Americans are very blessed, and many of us (particularly the young) feel a sense of entitlement. We "deserve" everything nice, as we wish it.

I wanted to know what inner fire had maintained the Latvian spirit throughout decades of forced occupation and oppression. What preserved their hopes for a life of freedom?

So I asked my students, "Where does that strength come from?"
They replied in the voice of their elders, "We never give up. We never give up."

If you have enjoyed and learned from this blog, please visit again. You can see it's become a retrospective, but it's very important to me to document what I experienced and learned. And I hope you will consider possibilities for foreign service and international travel. It will change your life immeasurably, for the better!

Best wish,
Kay Dennis

As my departure date approached, I frequently took long walks around the city, especially at night so as to savor the snow and the Christmas decorations. Here I am standing on the front lawn of the main building of Liepājas Universitāte


(Liepaja University), with Rozu Laukums (Rose Square) in the background. It was a bittersweet moment! I was eager to see my husband after a 4-month separation; but saying farewell to people and a country I had come to love...that was a different matter.

Christmas comes to Liepaja University. Can we be one world, in peace?

Liepaja's theater on Teatra Iela (Theater Street). I always noticed the Latvian flag! To think that for 50 years of Soviet oppression (following WWII) it was forbidden to fly it or to speak the Latvian language!

Liepaja has a long history of theater. This beautiful building just off the main street contains the playhouse. It's very elegant! The banner on the side advertises the 2-night run of Leonard Bernstein's famous "West Side Story." Linda, one of my students, dates a cast member, and she very kindly gave me a ticket as a birthday present  (I understand they were hard to come by). Soon thereafter I received a call from the U.S. Embassy in Riga: the Ambassador had invited me to be her guest for the performance! It was a thrilling night altogether; the play was presented in Latvian except for the music, which was sung in English. What I loved most was that local high schoolers had been invited to audition for parts - they did all of the dancing, which was very vigorous and exciting. A night to remember...

This is the Russian Embassy in Liepaja. It faces Jurmala (Seaside) Park. It is quite secure; there would be no climbing the fences here. My colleagues at the university watched with great care the national election that took place in Oct. 2010. By a narrow margin the Latvian party won. Latvia is a tiny nation of 2 million residents. Only 57% are ethnic Latvian; at least 33% are ethnic Russian.
My friends are concerned that the Latvian culture is dying because of the media. Moscow's deep pockets have enabled the formation of numerous TV and radio stations; they greatly outnumber Latvian. Impressionable young people are hearing subtle messages of a non-Latvian ideology. My friends are certain that while Russia will never again attack Latvia militarily, they seek to influence Latvia through social means.

Autumn in Liepaja was delightful and mostly dry. The many deciduous trees created a panorama of vivid color along the boulevards and in the parks. Everywhere can be seen evidence of man's handiwork juxtaposed against nature's blessings.

Much of Latvia is covered by forest. The people's reverence for their landscapes was one of the more compelling reasons that drew me to Latvia. Here in the park is another example of making something good from what some might discard as worthless.

Latvians have a sense of humor! Here in Jurmala (Seaside) Park just 2 minutes from my apartment, creative woodworkers made art from fallen trees.

What is the color of Latvia? She is every color, sometimes beautiful, sometimes murky. I have high hopes for her future although her people fear for her decline due to the ongoing "brain drain" so often associated with economic downturns. As winter encroached, this was the view from my living room window. How could one not be hopeful?

From the House of Worth, Paris, 1920.

One weekend, having been requested by the US Embassy to participate in an international conference panel on sustainable education (a rapid learning curve!), I remained in Riga to enjoy a concert and this well-publicized Art Nouveau fashion exhibition. It was simply stunning, and a real eye-opener to realize how, even in years long past, fashion trends spread widely. Assembled here were garden frocks, morning dresses, and many evening gowns brought from countries all over Europe and the USA. The precise handwork and the design sophistication were remarkable. Music from the era wafted through the hall, and fortunately picture-taking was allowed.

During the Independence Day festivities, the outdoor concert featured several beautiful young women soloists, each more talented than the last. It was very cold but hundreds of people stood for over 2 hours to enjoy a succession of performances, followed by fireworks. My feet were frozen by that time, so I returned to my 4th floor apartment, where I had a clear view of the display.

Here's another costume - with lots of detail, down to the socks. The men's pants are linen, made from flax grown in Latvian fields. The floral wreaths derive from ancient pagan customs. Even now, during Midsummer Festivals, women wear beautiful floral wreaths in their hair, and may keep them, preserved and hung on a bedroom wall.

Children obviously savor their opportunities to participate in traditional music.

The women's blouses are made of linen from flax grown widely all over Latvia. The headpieces are intricate, frequently with needle point decorations.

In all likelihood these dancers have been performing onstage since they were very young children. Each region of Latvia has its own special costumes.

This child sat rapt, but not still for long, as the stage performance got underway. She was mesmerized by the dancers in traditional folk costumes, and soon began a dance of her own. In time she was joined by 4 more children. In Latvia, parents often bring children to evening performances; they are generally well behaved.

One of my favorite performances during Independence Day was this very enthusiastic story-telling of matchmakers. Although I couldn't translate the Latvian, I could understand easily, having seen Fiddler on the Roof.

Daina L. is a colleague I met during the IAHE conference. She introduced herself by saying, "I have the honor of translating for you..." and proceeded to translate very discreetly during several presentations. She studied for years in Moscow, speaks very good English and is delightful. Only on my last day did she share that she had written some books, and gave one to me. I was very honored to be unanimously elected to membership in the International Academy for the Humanization of Education. 

My plenary talk was entitled, "Toward a Democratic Society: Tearing Down the Walls of the Mind." I had sent it ahead for translation into Latvian, German and Russian, but for some reason the audience did not receive the handout until I began to speak, so it was a bit awkward. Following my presentation I took several questions - this one from a very nice German professor who wanted to know more about "breaking the walls"... Oh dear! He made the point that for many older people who lived through totalitarian regimes, it is not so easy to cast off a mindset that is so completely accepting of government authority or a paternalistic orientation. Might I share some advice on how to become more self-determinate?
I replied that it was essential for every citizen to claim the right to a voice, and to embrace civic duty..."for the sake of your children and your children's children."

Here are the translators who enable conference participants, wearing headphones, to understand the speakers. The official languages of the conference are Latvian, German, Russian, and English. However, there are just 3 English-speaking (native tongue) attendees; the other 2 are Canadian.

At the front of the assembly hall, you see flags of 11 of the 13 countries represented at this conference of the International Academy of Humanization of Education. On the far left is Liepaja University's honor book, which the Rector will invite the Rector/Chancellor from Hildesheim Univ. in Germany to sign. It seems that since 1999 Hildesheim adminstrators were deeply involved in assisting Liepaja University to assume university status. As each dignitary was introduced, s/he received a sunflower from a young couple wearing traditional Latvian dress. Beautiful!

Around the time I was selected for the Fulbright Award, my future Dean at "LeipU", Ilze (L) asked me to present a plenary session at an international conference she/LeipU were hosting on campus in September. The organization was the International Academy for the Humanization of Education. I was very honored to accept although I felt quite pushed for time that summer as my full-time work at home continued as I prepared for Latvia. The conference included daily luncheons at a nearby restaurant. It afforded a priceless opportunity to meet and mingle with professional women from other countries. The ladies above all are from various parts of Latvia.

These are the students from my Intercultural Communications class. What a terrific group of young people! Most were fairly fluent in English, but not everyone. Consequently I made frequent revisions to my class in order to help them master the material.

Toward the end of the semester I invited my class to dinner at my apartment. Not everyone could attend but those who did contributed to a delightful evening. We ended up with two scrumptious chocolate cakes (different), so we brought leftovers to class the next day and polished them off!

Can you tell who is Russian and who is Latvian? Fortunately some of the raw wounds from the past are healing, with intermarriage and opportunities for engagement through education.

These are the students from my Qualitative Research class. They were truly a joy  to work with and get to know. Each student developed a proposal for a qualitative study involving some social issue. Their work was very serious and mature. Latvia's future is in good hands!

I spent quite a bit of time alone in Latvia. Everyone I knew was busy like me, and since I couldn't speak much Latvian, and was an outsider, strangers rarely met my eye, let alone spoke to me.
Anyway, who can object to wintry weather when dressed so warmly? The hand-knitted toboggan was a purchase at the markets in Riga. I did not bring a winter coat with me; I found this one at a consignment shop and it worked perfectly. Also I looked more like a local so I received fewer stares than when wearing my raincoat (so American!)

Linda and Ilze (colleagues in the School of Education) and I developed a wonderful relationship. They have worked together for about 15 years and are good friends. Ilze (R) studied at Fordham University for one year. They both are fluent in English and made me feel very welcome on campus and in town. We enjoyed several social events together. Here, they have just presented me with a stunning scarf for my birthday/Christmas. It was very hard to say goodbye!

Among my friends and colleagues at Liepa University are Agita and Egita. Agita (L) was my first contact in Latvia and the real enabler of my selection by LiepU as their first Fulbright Scholar. As Director and assistant in the Foreign Affairs Office they keep very busy with all international faculty and students. They always invited me along on excursions with the Erasmus students. Such fun!

Among the fresh produce available at the popular outdoor market are these beautiful berries. I've seen them growing wild on tall bushes in the park. People stop and pick them and eat them by the handful! That fits with Latvia's agrarian traditions of hunter-gatherer. When crushed, these berries make a very tart yet pleasant addition to cocktails, or so I am told.

This was my birthday lunch on 18 December. It was a very cold day, rather dismal for me as I had gone to the post office expecting a package. There was no mail for me, so I resolved to enjoy the snow and imminent arrival in Europe of my husband.

I celebrated my 60th birthday with luncheon at the Captain's Restaurant in Liepaja. The soup was flavorful and warming on this cold December Saturday - as was the wine!

This is a meal I enjoyed in the capital city of Riga. It was a stunning time, with snow and festive lights everywhere. I don't recall what meat I ate but as you can see, the meal was beautiful in its presentation. Instead of a tossed salad, meals typically include fresh garden vegetables like cucumber and dill - very fresh, no dressing.

In addition to distinctive cuisine and 7% beer, one can easily find a large selection of vodka in Latvia. The labels are beautiful and the prices vary widely. Alcohol is sold in the large supermarkets, neighborhood convenience stores, and specialty stores.

Latvian cuisine includes some excellent, hearty soups. Sour cream frequently is used as a garnish. This tasty stew was served in a very contemporary bowl which I'm told shows the Scandinavian influence. Everything goes better with a good beer! Most Latvian beer is 7% alcohol. P.S. This restaurant had the best French fries I found in Latvia.

Adjacent to the outdoor fresh market in city center stands a large pavilion-type building, constructed in 1907. The procedure is to buy your goods from each vendor, separately. The interior was carved into long rows with many counters. I had my favorite vendors for cheese, jogurt, spices, pastry, and chicken. The cat here liked to hang out in this spot, next to the staircase leading to the fish market.

Of all the new foods I tasted while in Latvia, my favorite was the seaweed salad. It was crisp, nearly like slaw, made tangy with a vinaigrette. Pimiento and slivers of cabbage added color and interest. In case you are wondering: No, I didn't make my own; I found it in the deli section of the supermarket.

What would Europe be without chocolate? LAIMA is the most renowned of Latvian chocolatiers. It's good, but I preferred a Lithuanian brand, Pergale.

Unfortunately, my lack of fluency in Latvian put severe limitations on my ability to purchase food. At the markets, most products looked wonderful but I had no idea what to do with most of it. A few times I rallied my courage and tried something unknown; the results usually were positive.

One of my earlier cooking attempts featured fresh market tomatoes, cucumbers, and broccoli, along with chicken and pasta. Latvian tomatoes are some of the best I've ever tasted!

One of my first restaurant meals in Liepaja was hosted by a staff member of the US Embassy in Riga. Happily for me we became friends. My lunch was "pangasious" fish, accompanied by steamed vegetables and - potatoes, as usual. When I saw the word "pangasious" on the menu I asked the waitress, "What kind of fish is that?" (meaning fresh or salt-water). She replied, "GOOD fish!"

About Latvian CUISINE...potatoes are everywhere, but I didn't mind because they were prepared so beautifully and with wonderful flavoring. Typical salads include fresh greens and grated carrots and cucumbers. This pork entree was delicious, as was the beer.

Pageantry is an important part of academia. Here on the steps of the main building are assembled the mayor and several deans and senior administrators of LiepU. The Rector is on the far right. Highly regarded in Latvia, in November on his return from vacationing in New Zealand, he was summoned to Riga to serve in the Ministry of Education. I'm told he was sorry to leave Liepaja because he enjoyed a daily morning swim in the Baltic Sea. The Dean of Education, with whom I enjoyed a wonderful relationship, is standing 3rd from the left.  The flag on the left is the flag of Liepaja, in the region of Kurzeme. The Latvian flag is on the right.

Here is another of LiepU's buildings, several blocks from the "main building." I didn't discover this one until I'd been in Liepaja for several weeks!

Here is the lobby of the main building on campus. Originally built in the 1960s as a municipal office building, it has undergone makeovers here and there.